I'm surprised to hear this, given the mystique around the Sprague Vitamin Q caps (which did NOT contain PCBs).Caps with PCBs sound best. If the cap has any leakage, I would certainly replace it but this is unlikely unless it has been abused. And if you do replace it, get another vintage cap with PCBs. To be on the safe side I mount mine with the terminals facing up.
Really? I’ve had good luck with the Duelund. My Onkens are fully wired with it as well as using it for speaker wire and ICs. Full loom I guess. It’s what I used from binding posts to the 414’s that were in these 614 cabinets.I don’t know anything about the Altec wire, but I would certainly try it before the Duelund. I have not had good results with any type of Duelund wire.
A lot of people like Duelund wire but it hasn’t worked for me. I would describe it somewhat like you described Belden—-rolled off at both ends, soft on transients, and lacking inner detail. A few years ago I tried Audio Note Litz wiring and I have never been tempted to try anything else. Their Lexus copper Litz wire has a warm tonal balance somewhat similar to Duelund but with more extended bass and treble and, most important, more see-through inner detail and better microdynamics. Lexus requires a solder pot to strip off the insulation on all the conductors so it isn’t as easy to terminate as Duelund but the process is pretty easy once you’ve done it a few times. I use Lexus for all of the internal wiring of my speakers and crossover connections.Really? I’ve had good luck with the Duelund. My Onkens are fully wired with it as well as using it for speaker wire and ICs. Full loom I guess. It’s what I used from binding posts to the 414’s that were in these 614 cabinets.
The Belden I have as well and I find it noticeably rolled off and soft sounding. I don’t really use it anymore.
Really? The polarity in the network doesn't matter? I mean... what is the most correct? I really need to learn more about EE.It actually doesn't matter unless you are 100 percent sure that your phono-stage, preamp nor amplifier inverts phase. Hook it up either way and listen for a difference when you swap the speaker cables.
Awesome! Thanks for the clarification. I could see the LF driver was running full range... so I was inclined to go off that. I also notice that it seemed that the tweeter was out of phase, and your explanation of the network makes sense to me. Thanks. I'll do it the "more correct way." Haha...I agree that it really doesn’t matter, as long as you connect them both the same way.
I suppose the white wire is the more correct positive input. The LF driver is run full range with the white wire going to the +terminal. For the HF driver there is a second order high pass, fed from the white wire, with an EQ thing and the driver is wired with reverse polarity. The second order high pass creates a 180 degree phase shift and the reverse polarity at the driver corrects for that shift to better phase align with the LF driver.
Have you tried swapping the crossover from the working speaker to the non-working speaker? That should tell you what is broken.So I have run into a little issue. Hopefully it's little...
I hooked them up yesterday and immediately noticed that the right tweeter was not working... or seems to be not working. The left variable resistor in the other speaker seems to work, mostly but when I turn it to "0" where it clicks (I assume to bypass it) it is clearly working, but the one in the right speaker seems to make no difference and clicking it to "0" seems to still not produce any results. I haven't pulled the backs again, but measuring the DCR at the binding posts each speaker registers a DCR of 5.5-5.6. I would assume that if the VC on one tweeter was open that would register differently?
The tweeters were checked by bill when I dropped them off at GPA, and so I didn't check them individually when I got them home cause I assumed they were working fine after he swapped the bad one.
I'm hoping the variable resistor is the issue.
Any thoughts oh wise ones?
I haven't done anything yet. I discovered the issue and then had to leave cause I had stuff going on. Haven't gotten back around to it yet. Hopefully sometime this week. Time is in short supply these days. Just was hoping it was all going to work perfectly. I'm an eternal optimist.Have you tried swapping the crossover from the working speaker to the non-working speaker? That should tell you what is broken.