I've got this so far...purportedly for the 8Y. I've never measured T/S before. I understand it's not terribly difficult... I've either got, or got access to, the hardware to do it.I wasn't really planning on doing this, but as fate would have it, these empty cabs showed up here a few weeks ago. I think I have T/S parameters for the 406-8Y around here somewhere....View attachment 37788
Ditto on the RCF H3709 horn - it’s a real sleeper. Plus you have to respect RCF for emulating a classic.View attachment 37127
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Through the years, I've experimented with double LF drivers (755E x 2 and 414A x 2) in a mono set up. Each time I was disappointed. In spite of the gains in scale, low frequency extension, dynamics and higher SPLs, I couldn't live with the muddled midrange and lack of overall purity. But that's just a reflection of what I want out of my hifi set up and my preference to keep things simple.
If I were in your shoes, I'll bypass the Heppner horn, run the -8Y in wide range mode in the original box w/ passive radiator and mount the RCF horn combo on top using the M15 XO as a starting point. The RCF H3709 is a nice horn! If mounted free standing, it might (?) need a bit of damping since the metal used was relatively thin. Since it's a straight horn, make provisions for greater attenuation vs. the 90 degree bent Altec 32 horn.
My gut feel is the 406Z and 406-8Y will give more bass in a bigger box like the 614. Something I've been wanting to try.
I agree, beautiful cabinets!👍Ditto on the RCF H3709 horn - it’s a real sleeper. Plus you have to respect RCF for emulating a classic.
As for the horn ringing, surprisingly the ringing isn’t too bad when free standing. I am rotating between two sets of speakers, the one shown below as well as an OB design with the H3709 mounted to the baffle. I’m not bothered by any ringing or shouting, and that’s something that makes me run straight out of rooms at audio shows.
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Sorry for the detour but I also have a Nakamichi TA3A and I think they are absolutely excellent, especially when Stephen Sank does his mods to them. Their already great performance gets brought up a few levels. The mods are very cheap as well. Definitely worth doing.I’m using PIO motor run with film caps paralleled to adjust value/crossover. You can see a picture of the back of my speaker at the end of the 802/32/414 pinned thread. Not married to any flavor of caps, at this point, with all films the next step at a slightly different value (measured value). I work slow...listen to music more than I change things. I’m not sure of the crossover frequency...I’m using a online calculator with 8 ohm on high pass and 16 ohm on low pass, then adjust frequency until I match cap value.
My goal is simplified...nothing between wide-range 414z and the tube amp but wire. And no resonator box to tune therefore the open back. I’m bringing the 32c/807 in slowly to help the top end, but not to step on the 414z. I’m using the less sensitive Altec CDs thinking they would be a better match to the 414z without the need for a L-pad. On bottom, I’ve got the same goal, but haven’t done much critical experimenting. I’m using a 605B in a H-frame cabinet with only the woofer powered by some plate amps with crossover fq at 40hz. Really like the sound of bass guitar and drums with this setup. MiniDSP may be the best solution here, but then, I got to learn how to use it. I have a Nakamichi TA3A with Nelson Pass designed stasis amp I would like to use here.
je2a3 is the man for help. His blog got me started down this road.
I almost forgot, I bought 2 pairs of 414Z’s to do the dual 414 thing, but one pair arrived damaged. Your thread has me thinking I need to get the damaged one repaired and....a never ending road!! But it’s fun