General DIY Questions/Answers

Have anyone try using a film cap for 300B/2A3 cathode bypass? Is it better SQ than an electrolytic?

I've never used ‘lyrics for cathode bypass. I have heard surprising differences between films in the same amp, although I have not experimented extensively.
 
I don't really think this is a tube thing but I have a diy power supply for my whole system that plugs into. It has a surge protector and noise filter.

When I shut down my system I turn off the CD then turn off the amp then turn off the power supply. When I turn off the power supply I get a huge thump and squeal out of my speakers.

Any idea way.

It sounds to me like it's not the power supply that's the problem. It's that your amp is in essence still powered up after you turn it off via the can caps or something - don't know what amp this is. Maybe a bleeder resistor in your amp to discharge the caps after you turn it off? Or just a longer delay before powering off the power supply as @Wntrmute2 suggested.
 
Have anyone try using a film cap for 300B/2A3 cathode bypass? Is it better SQ than an electrolytic?
Following Paul B's example, I replaced the 'lytic cathode resistor bypass caps with a big film caps in my Bottlehead Kaiju. I thought it resulted in a noticeable, albeit subtle, improvement in SQ. That was about a year ago and, with my poor memory, I can't be more specific about the nature of the improvement. Solen makes some pretty big MKP caps - that what I use.

cheers, Derek
 
I had been searching for and found this cap. Seem to be pretty reasonable in size.


I don't mean to send you down a rabbit hole or start a debate - but note that the cap you linked to uses a polyester dialectric. For those that believe that the dialectric material affects SQ, polypropylene seems to be the most recommended plastic type. I've not tested this and just gone with the flow and always used polypro. Here's a polypro Wima cap with the same specs and form factor: Wima Cap

cheers, Derek
 
I like WIMA caps, the one one that you mention is a non-stocking item minimum order is 20 unit. ☹
 
Aren't non-electrolytic caps pretty large in those values?

I guess. Depends on the capacity and voltage. Build planning becomes more important. I think the effort and expense is worth it, but that is a personal decision made where uncertainty and bias exist.

One day in world where I have a breadboard hooked up to decent speaker I might do some experiments, FWIW.
 
Going to post this question here.
I saw in @Wntrmute2's preamp thread that if you have a 60hz hum it is not power supply.
I always thought that 60 was ps noise, so... what causes the 60hz noise?
 
I believe that 60hz hum is usually a ground loop or grounding problem and 120hz is a power supply issue. I'm sure someone with more smarts than me will confirm or deny this.
 
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Black RTV from the auto parts store is your friend. It won't attack copper, doesn't smell all that much, and you can just squish those big caps against your chassis with the black RTV and there they will stay!
 
Scotch makes a really heavy duty double sided tape. It is grey and very tenacious. not sure if it is any better than the silicone adhesive.

tape
 
How are the 4 pin caps hooked up differently than a two pin cap? There are not two separate caps in there correct?
 
Also is it okay to put the cap in the photo? It is very close to the B= and filament wires
 

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