Greetings from Salectric

The 1/2w resistors (270R) are for the I/V and the 2w resistors (1M) are loading or bleeder resistors for the output coupling caps. They will replace Caddocks of the same value.

The Audio Note Silver tantalums are the best sounding resistors for loading applications (input loads, interstage loads and output loads) but not necessarily other spots. For example, Riken carbon films are still the very best for gridstoppers. All IMHO, of course.

Any pix of your DAC? It sounds like it might be somewhat similar to what I'm using.

I am far out of my element when it comes to anything digital. I have no idea how my DAC will stack up against something else, but I intend to haul it around to make some comparisons after I get to know it a bit better.

I'll keep those resistor tips in mind, thanks!

I linked it in my previous reply since I didn't want to hijack your thread. :)

Anyway here's my work in progress.
breadboardDAC.jpg


I'm in a similar boat. I had to do a lot of reading about digital audio and DACs and still not sure if I've grasped enough to embark on this project. Since I liked the sound of the TDA1541 chip and had a couple scavenged from dead Magnavox CDPs, I ordered generic Chinese boards for further education and mods.
 
The amps were working fine at the Capital Audio Fest in Rockville, Md., where the line voltage was definitely not 220 volts. Probably more like 90 volts given all the hifi equipment in use.
 
The amps were working fine at the Capital Audio Fest in Rockville, Md., where the line voltage was definitely not 220 volts. Probably more like 90 volts given all the hifi equipment in use.
That's good to know - perhaps they should update their documentation accordingly...
 
Hello Salectric,
all of these are superb realisations !
I like the 46 amp (I have some in the box not used...).
The choice of the components is very accurate, but It's the extra thing : you can "voicing" your creation as you like, and for a given system.
it's amazing how each component has its own sound!
What is the output power please ? 7-8 watts like 300B ?

Bruno
 
Hello Salectric,
all of these are superb realisations !
I like the 46 amp (I have some in the box not used...).
The choice of the components is very accurate, but It's the extra thing : you can "voicing" your creation as you like, and for a given system.
it's amazing how each component has its own sound!
What is the output power please ? 7-8 watts like 300B ?

Bruno

Unfortunately the 46 doesn’t have that much power. A single 46 can only put out around 1 1/4 watts. A rule of thumb is a 2A3 has half the power of a 300B; a 45 has half the power of a 2A3; and a 46 has half the power of a 45. That may sound rather bleak but the good news is a 46 sounds more powerful than the actual rated power. Subjectively the power sounds like it should be between a 45 and a 2A3. It isn’t really but it sounds that way.

As a result the 46 can be used with more speakers than you might think. Yesterday I was listening to my son’s system which uses a stereo 46 amp feeding 96db TAD speakers. In a medium size room we were able to listen at comfortably loud volumes without any sense of compression or softness on peaks. My mono 46 amps use exactly the same circuit but they don’t fare as well on my 99db speakers. I listen at louder volumes so I need more power and more control. One other difference that may be important is the TADs use a simple 6 dB crossover whereas my speakers use 12 dB crossovers. The steeper slope may be more demanding on the amps.
 
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Some speaker updates. I replaced the YL horns and drivers with Western Electric 32A horns and different YL drivers. The old drivers were D-3500 which have a 1” throat. The new drivers are 5500-G which have a 0.7” throat to match the WE horns. The Jensen woofer and EV T-350 tweeter are the same as before.

To mount the new horns, I made a new baffleboard. However it’s not finished. I need to use my router to recess the opening for the 32A to make it flush with the baffleboard, and then attach the same grill cloth that was on the original baffleboard.

The photo of the back shows the brass and steel throat adaptor. The YL drivers have a screw-in mounting just like the WE 555 field coil so the drivers screw into the adaptor which is bolted to the 32A horn. I bought the throat adaptors off Ebay from a guy in the Ukraine. That was a bit of a gamble but it turns out they are beautifully machined and are a perfect fit for both the horn and driver.

321BFE71-568D-43CE-9592-8152BB36F362.jpeg3ECB770B-E619-4E05-A62A-8FA6AEC9173B.jpeg
 
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And here’s the updated crossover. The woofer/mid crossover is second order at 700 Hz. The YL driver runs full range on the top end. The tweeter crosses in at 7K with a first order filter, matching the natural rolloff of the YL.

The caps are all vintage paper in oil. Chokes are modern Solen 14g Perfect Lay. Level matching is with Mills 12w resistors because I like the sound better than L-Pads. The wiring from the crossover to drivers is all Audio Note Lexus.

BFD71813-585C-431E-A221-FF01DCFA282A.jpeg
 
Hello Sal, I remember you from A'gon. Glad to see how well you are doing, it's obvious you are very much enjoying your music, and the special system you have.

Best regards,
Dan
 
In looking at this thread again, I was surprised by the crossover picture posted above. In the nearly four years since then, I have made a number of changes. Same midrange horn and driver, same tweeter, but I now use Jensen A15PM woofers and the crossover is now 500 Hz instead of 700. In the crossover, nearly all the parts have been changed.

IMG_0309.jpeg
 
It's hard to not keep seeking better in the this hobby.
Wish I were close enough for a visit, would love the hear those.
I find a parallel to our views and equipment tastes.
 
Nice system @Salectric - are you still using the Siggwan?

I have an early one of James' Apparition arms on my 401 and love it. He and I talked quite a bit about the designs, and some of the features we talked about made it into the latter Apparitions and the Siggwan. I just sold a later NOS/NIB Apparition to another friend here in NZ, since I knew I was going to be unlikely to use it as originally planned.

Used to have the Benz SL on the 401 with an OL arm and then the Apparition as well and quite liked it, but changed to a Shilabe and never looked back.
 
I still have the Siggwan @gortnipper but it’s not connected right now. Since getting my Benz LP back from Soundsmith, I have been listening to it on a Triplanar. I keep meaning to try the Benz on the Siggwan but I haven’t done so. One of these days.

My Galibier table has room for two arms but it sounds better when there’s just one mounted at a time.
 
@Salectric
I’m considering changing my JBL 075 tweeter for the EV T350. Can you give us your thoughts on the EV and why you picked it over other tweeters out there? Did you try anything else?

Thanks!
 
@Jeff1225 I am very happy with the T350 tweeters. I use them with a first-order crossover at 6.5K which is where my YL drivers are starting to roll off naturally. They provide just the right degree of HF extension, detail and dynamics and they blend nicely with the midrange horns.

The T350s replaced T35Bs that were in the speakers when I bought them from Deja Vu Audio. At the time, Vu really liked the T35s and used either them or Jensen RP302s in nearly all the speakers I saw in the store. In a few very expensive designs, he used GIP replicas of WE 597a. In the last year or so, Vu has started using an inexpensive Fostex tweeter that he says he likes very much. I haven’t been all that impressed hearing his speakers with Fostex tweeters but these were hardly A/B comparisons. I suspect he may be having problems locating matched vintage tweeters.

I never liked the T35s. Even though I used them with a higher crossover (10K instead of 6.5K), I found them harsh and they rolled off in the highs too quickly. Plus they didn’t blend coherently with the YL midrange horns I was using back then.

Replacing the T35Bs with a matched pair of T350s was a big improvement. More detailed, fully extended highs, and no harshness. Of course, the EV tweeters are sensitive to crossover cap and wiring. I tried lots of different caps, modern film caps as well as vintage, but always returned to the Aerovox wax paper caps Vu used in the original speakers. They give me the warm tonal balance that I like and they blend the best with the vintage drivers.

Connecting wires are also important. I tried several types before settling on Audio Note SPx for the run between crossover and tweeters.

I haven’t tried any JBL tweeters so I can’t comment on how they might compare to the EVs.
 
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Thank you. I want to keep the existing crossover points so I need to use a 16ohm tweeter with similar specs to the 075. The EVT350 is high on my list, although finding a 16ohm one hasn’t been easy.

Another driver that keeps popping up as a contender in a the Faital Pro HF10AK.
 
You can always add an 8 ohm resistor in series with the 8 ohm T350. It’s so efficient that you simply adjust your L-Pad a bit and you’re all set.

In my case, I use a 3 ohm Mills 12w resistor in series with an 8 ohm L-Pad. With a 2.2uf cap feeding the 11 ohm load, I get the 6.5K crossover.
 
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