I am a sucka for cheap horns redux

mhardy6647

Señor Member
#1
Saw these on eBAY last week with a modest BIN and modest shipping charges, too.
For a sawbuck more (shipped) than the ELAC 6.2 thingies were on sale for back on Black Friday :p I picked these up. Mismatched horns (one aluminum, one plastic, and the plastic one -- I am pretty sure -- has been, shall we say, chopped and channeled), but I figured I couldn't go wrong, particularly if both of the Renkus-Heinz drivers worked.

The horns & drivers arrived today & I am pleased to report that, indeed, both compression drivers seem (sound) to be in good working order. No idea if the diaphragms are original or otherwise, but, again -- seemed like a worthy risk to me.

Further details as - and if! - events warrant. :)

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#2
i have those drivers; sound very nice w the ebay horns from the other thread. i had something loose in one of the drivers, took it apart and reglued and voila! i was crossing them at about 3,000hz.
 

mhardy6647

Señor Member
#4
Given the chatter in the other cheap horns thread about the modern, short-throat "horns", snaggin' a pair of pancake drivers was, umm, icing on the cake, I thought.

:-I
 

mhardy6647

Señor Member
#6
I think the plastic one may have suffered an episode of excessive torque.
I am not an expert, so I may be misinterpreting what I am seeing -- I shall post some, shall we say, forensic photographic evidence anon, and y'all can tell me.
 

Pboser

Junior Member
#10
Need some advice - I got a pair of the plastic Altec 32 horns too, attached to a pair of Altec 902-8 drivers. I only got one diaphragm with them, though, so I'm dying to try the horns out with a pair of Emilar EC175 I have. However, I can't get the Altec drivers off the horns! Is there a trick I'm missing? I removed the nuts and washers, and they feel no looser than before! HELP!!!
Thanks,
Pete
 
#11
They are supposed too have a gasket.
Many times people have used silicon.
You may hold the driver and tap horn with something.
I would not tap on the driver.
 
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je2a3

Junior Member
#12
Hi Pete,

Spray the mounting holes with WD-40 or equivalent, let it stand for 15 minutes or more. Loosen the nuts but not entirely and tap the nut/stud with a mallet without using excessive force which might crack the mounting flange.
 

je2a3

Junior Member
#14
Would this methodology be appropriate to a metal horn, too?
Asking for a friend ;)

So I have an interesting problem/challenge/opportunity: A 'stuck' horn
I didn't know you have a similar problem. It won't hurt to try it.

I had a similar issue when I was removing my 802Ds from the sand cast 811s. I let the weight of the driver to unleash itself from the flange while alternately tapping down on each nut/stud.

Even if I never liked that horn, I was still careful because it's an early version. ;)
 

Pboser

Junior Member
#16
I can see what looks like a regular gasket, not silicone, but it's still tight. I'll give the WD-40 and a try - the horns feel a little delicate so I don't want to risk breaking them!

Thanks mred and Joseph! And sorry I didn't find those other threads - who knew how common a problem it is!

I'll report back.
 
#17
I can see what looks like a regular gasket, not silicone, but it's still tight. I'll give the WD-40 and a try - the horns feel a little delicate so I don't want to risk breaking them!

Thanks mred and Joseph! And sorry I didn't find those other threads - who knew how common a problem it is!

I'll report back.
I didn't know either -- the JBLs here being frozen has sure flummoxed me!
Yes, please do keep us apprised of your adventures.
 

Pboser

Junior Member
#18
I have had no luck with WD-40 and gentle banging. Maybe too gentle, but I don't want to go too far! And there isn't enough of a gap to sneak a flat spatula in there and try to wiggle it apart. I'll try a sharper knife and see if I can create some space.
 
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