New - To EVERYTHING

So unlike last time, you can actually play music through the D1S, but any attempt to control it causes a freeze? Or were you also able to play music through it last time too?



It could, but it seems unlikely given they have rather excellent QC and instances of defective RPis are super rare. Not impossible, but improbable, especially since it works through the 3.5mm jack.



That wouldn't be hard, it's a simple board swap, but it would be time and trouble, not to mention money unless Allo sends you the RPi. I agree they should have sent you a whole new player.

I suggest three things, post your findings both with Allo's support channel, and on the Moode site thread you started. There are VERY helpful people on that forum, including Tim Curtis the Moode developer, and various others. Don't let your initial reaction to that site rule out that they can't be of any help, they can, including likely looking at a dump of an RPi activity log that I can't help you with. That log can often point to what is going on, but I lack the software developer expertise to properly analyze that log.

Lastly, flash a microSD card with Volumio, and see if that somehow miraculously works. If so, then there is a problem with the D1S driver in Moode, but I highly doubt that as the D1S is supposed to work with either the regular or the Signature driver, and our own @je2a3 is using Moode with the standard driver and the non-Signature DigiOne with no issues.
Sorry, been out of town for work.

No it still doesnt actually play sound through D1S. Like before, playback appears to be happening bc the song appears to be playing on the playback screen, but there’s no sound. Just like before. And, just like before, if I try to pause the song or hit next or previous, the entire thing freezes.

I’m actually talking to Ioan at Allo trying to get them to send me a whole new Player unit now. They want to send me a new RPi now, but my argument was that I paid for a Player to avoid all the setup bc I don’t know anything about Linux, coding etc, so I don’t want a new RPi card and have to figure out how to set that up now. That’s the whole point of purchasing as a Player.
 

MikeyFresh

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Sorry, been out of town for work.

No it still doesnt actually play sound through D1S. Like before, playback appears to be happening bc the song appears to be playing on the playback screen, but there’s no sound. Just like before. And, just like before, if I try to pause the song or hit next or previous, the entire thing freezes.

I’m actually talking to Ioan at Allo trying to get them to send me a whole new Player unit now. They want to send me a new RPi now, but my argument was that I paid for a Player to avoid all the setup bc I don’t know anything about Linux, coding etc, so I don’t want a new RPi card and have to figure out how to set that up now. That’s the whole point of purchasing as a Player.
There isn't any actual set-up for the RPi itself, you would just be disassembling the mechanical aspect, it's a 40-pin GPIO that plugs in to connect the RPi3 with the D1S. There is no Linux software configuration or coding involved, that's actually what takes place in Moode itself, Linux runs on Moode in the form of a custom variant of Raspbian (Debian) Linux.

I know I suggested flashing a card with Volumio just to compare, it's worth a shot and I explained why, there is the slight/remote chance that this is a driver integration issue with Moode and Allo, it would be interesting to compare. Now that you are back in town, maybe give that a shot, and at the same time accept Ioan's offer to send you a new RPi, there is nothing to do there except plug it into the D1S via that 40-pin GPIO, no software changes at all.
 
It looks like they are actually going to send me a whole new Player. Ioan and Allo have certainly had good customer service, for me at least, during all of this. I read that communication had been poor for others around the holidays, but I have not experienced that.

This morning, I tried to fire it up just to have some background music, and I couldn't even get the Moode to come up in the browser. It was like the IP didn't exist all of a sudden. I double checked with Fing and the IP is still the same, so that wasn't the issue. I tried unplugging and reconnecting the power cables after a good few minutes and it still wouldn't come up.
 
Going to wait for the new player. I swapped the original microSD card back in to try to get it to work and Moode still won’t open up in a browser. The RPi board has to be bad.
 

MikeyFresh

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It does sound that way, and that's too bad, but assuming that's the issue it will soon be resolved.
Please let us know how it turns out.
 
Alright, well it must be a power issue. This one is doing the same thing, although it doesn't freeze when I hit pause anymore, so that is different at least.

People on Audiophile Style say that when they plug in the clean side (left), they see lights come on. I don't. Not on either one of the two units I now have in my possession. When I plug in the right side, then the lights come on. That tells me the D1S card isn't getting any power. I don't know how to fix that. I've tried plugging that power supply into another outlet, just in case that was the issue. Nope.

Any ideas?
 

MikeyFresh

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What is the power requirement spec for the clean side as stated by Allo? Is it 5 volts, or is it something higher than that.

What is the voltage and amperage rating of the power supply you are connecting there and do you have any other suitable PS to substitute for testing purposes?

Is the RPi3 board a 3B, or is it the newer and slightly more power hungry 3B+? Either way that too has a power requirement spec, "officially" 5 volts and 2.5 amps.

Obviously if you get no LED lights on the D1S that is the problem to tackle first, but the RPi3 power supply is also not trivial. However start with nailing down the specified requirement for the D1S board.

Did Allo do something crazy with the Signature version of that board and make it use a 6 volt power supply or some such nonsense?

Edit: it seems from their web page it is a 5 volt supply, but 3 amps for the dirty side of that board. What power supply are you attempting to use there and what is its amperage spec?

Edit #2: Are you using the order of operations/power up sequence as specified by Allo whereby first you power the clean side and then the dirty side of the board?

Edit #3: The clean side of the board (the RPi3) needs 5-6 volts and 100mA, which means you could easily use a USB battery for testing.
 
So as I read it, the clean side is the D1S board. As a couple members, as well as the Darko Youtube review states, the left side plug is the clean and is the one that needs to be plugged in first, which is what I’ve been doing.

As far as power source, I chose the package with 2 SMPS and a battery pack, which is 3 power sources (paid extra for the battery pack). They say it can run on the 2 supplied SMPS, though they dont recommend it; but it is not recommended for sound quality reasons. I’ve just been trying to get the thing to play anything at this point, so I was trying to use the two power supplies at first.

There are people on the Audio Style site that are reporting an increase of sound quality once they get a LPS, which leads me to believe they, too, used the 2 supplied SMPS’s at first. Regardless, and again, if they are going to market it as a “plug and play Player,” then it should play music with the supplied power supplies; and I believe that it does for others.
 

MikeyFresh

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I also see that the LED on the board that you are not seeing light up is governed by a jumper, that jumper is labeled J29 on the board but Allo conveniently doesn't show a picture of where that is on the board.

For the LED to work they would need to have shipped you a unit with a small jumper installed at J29, if that jumper isn't there then you would not see the LED illuminate for that reason, potentially tricking you into thinking the board is getting no power when really it's just that the LED is disabled via removal of that jumper.
 

MikeyFresh

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the left side plug is the clean and is the one that needs to be plugged in first, which is what I’ve been doing.
Ok that seems right although saying left and right isn't descriptive enough, all you have to do to reverse that is slide the board around 180º and left becomes right. The board is labeled clean and dirty, can you see that legend on the board?
 

MikeyFresh

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I am seeing the verbiage about the J29 jumper on the Allo webpage in which they are talking about a "Child card" So there are really 3 elements to the D1S, the RPi3, the D1S main board, and this "child card".

Do you see that they have actually included a child card in your player that connects via an 8-pin GPIO interface?

D1S manual
 
Ok that seems right although saying left and right isn't descriptive enough, all you have to do to reverse that is slide the board around 180º and left becomes right. The board is labeled clean and dirty, can you see that legend on the board?
You’re right, but they wouldnt plug into the Rpi board and fit the case if I just turned those 180, so I dont think that can be an issue with the Player.
 
I am seeing the verbiage about the J29 jumper on the Allo webpage in which they are talking about a "Child card" So there are really 3 elements to the D1S, the RPi3, the D1S main board, and this "child card".

Do you see that they have actually included a child card in your player that connects via an 8-pin GPIO interface?

D1S manual
Yes the D1S is actually 2 boards. This was also the case when they sent me a new D1S board for the original Player - 2 boards, only 1 of which has the output connections.
Could this be the difference between the Player and those who are just switching the D1S card with the original D1? Do I need to have all 3 power sources plugged up? I certainly don’t want to fry it, and I’ve read it only needs 2 power sources.
 

MikeyFresh

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Yes the D1S is actually 2 boards. This was also the case when they sent me a new D1S board for the original Player - 2 boards, only 1 of which has the output connections.
Could this be the difference between the Player and those who are just switching the D1S card with the original D1? Do I need to have all 3 power sources plugged up? I certainly don’t want to fry it, and I’ve read it only needs 2 power sources.
I'm not sure I understand your question except to say No, don't connect 3 power supplies, that's not the point I was making. I merely wanted to confirm that they actually shipped you a unit complete with this "child card" connected/installed.

What about Jumper J29? Again, they show no photo of where exactly that is on the board, but if you locate it and see no jumper is installed there then that's why you see no LED power lights, it doesn't mean the board is getting no power, it just means the jumper that governs the LEDs is missing. Although their language on that is cryptic, it doesn't actually say whether the jumper enables the LED, or defeats it, they say the LED "can be switched on and off by removing the jumper".

So which is it? Ask Ioan is the jumper J29 supposed to be installed for that LED to work, or removed for the LED to work?

Also, the clean side is the side with the coax output connectors, that's the easiest way to identify it, the other side of the board that lacks the coax output connectors is the dirty side.
 

MikeyFresh

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After zooming in on their photo of the "Child card", I do see where Jumper J29 (for the LED) is located.

Look at the link to the manual I posted above, in the photo of the child board the Jumper J29 is located directly to the left of the WM8805 chip on the top side view of that board on the same corner as the J27 8-pin male GPIO.

Does your card have that jumper installed? In their picture it appears the Jumper is removed, but it's hard to tell for sure.
 
Ah, I can see through the top and see which one is labeled clean, and it’s the one I’ve assumed to be. So yea, no LED when I plug into it first.

As far as J29, here’s a picture.

So it looks like the jumper is installed, but doesn’t connect the child board to the main board.
 

Attachments

MikeyFresh

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May be a better pic
OK so that is the jumper J29 installed, ask Ioan if that turns the LED off, or if the LED is supposed to be on when that jumper is installed.

If it is supposed to be on with the jumper installed, then ask him why you get no LED when powering the board, or what additional troubleshooting steps you can take.

Alternatively, remove the jumper and power up the board just to see for yourself if the LED magically now lights, if so you've answered that question and then you'd at least know the board is receiving power.

Also ask Ioan what sort of timing delay/sequence you are supposed to follow, i.e. how long do you need to wait after powering the clean side before you then power up the dirty side, I didn't see any specific instruction there in the manual. It is possible there is wait time there, for instance if it takes a bit for the super capacitor to charge, and you need to wait that out before powering the dirty side.
 
OK so that is the jumper J29 installed, ask Ioan if that turns the LED off, or if the LED is supposed to be on when that jumper is installed.

If it is supposed to be on with the jumper installed, then ask him why you get no LED when powering the board, or what additional troubleshooting steps you can take.

Alternatively, remove the jumper and power up the board just to see for yourself if the LED magically now lights, if so you've answered that question and then you'd at least know the board is receiving power.

Also ask Ioan what sort of timing delay/sequence you are supposed to follow, i.e. how long do you need to wait after powering the clean side before you then power up the dirty side, I didn't see any specific instruction there in the manual. It is possible there is wait time there, for instance if it takes a bit for the super capacitor to charge, and you need to wait that out before powering the dirty side.
Ok i’ll give it a shot. I’ve read anywhere from 20-40 seconds. I’ve given it over a minute before, but even purposely counted to 40 one time. Same result no matter what. I’ll try the jumper test and report back.
 
Pulled the jumper top off that J29 plug and still no lights. I’m going to be less than impressed if I got two units in a row that do not send power to the D1S board.

Sent Ioan an email. Will probably be late tonight before I get a response due to time difference.
 
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