OK. We have some movement on the CM4 front - turns out there is a shortage / availability issue with the wireless SKUs for some reason. However, I was able to get the non-wireless version with the 16GB eMMC storage and 1GB RAM (instead of the wireless, 2GB, no eMMC version I originally spec'd) for the same price, so it's en-route. Hopefully I'll have my grubby little paws on them by Friday and can start futzing about with the build (breadboard first - chassis to follow) using the IanCanada's IsolatorPi 2 / Millet linear USB PSU combo between the CM4 IO board and the HiFiBerry Digi+PRO (CM4 IO uses a 12VDC wall-wart PSU).

I may not have been able to get an RTX 3000-series video card or an Xbox Series X, but dammit, I'll have a CM4 to play with!

[maniacal cackling]
Awesome! Not a bad swap, a streamer does not need any more than 1GB of RAM, and the eMMC storage can run the OS arguably faster/better than any SD card can.

You'll have to jump through a few hoops with no microSD card, not crazy, but a procedure to flash the eMMC.

That only needs to be done just once of course, then you can flash an OS image to it via connection to the board's USB micro port.
 
Awesome! Not a bad swap, a streamer does not need any more than 1GB of RAM, and the eMMC storage can run the OS arguably faster/better than any SD card can.

You'll have to jump through a few hoops with no microSD card, not crazy, but a procedure to flash the eMMC.

That only needs to be done just once of course, then you can flash an OS image to it via connection to the board's USB micro port.
It was not bad at all, actually.
 
Has it been streamlined, or was it essentially the same as in the link?
Well, it's super-easy on Windows. The biggest pain in the ass was making Windows Security behave when downloading the .EXE from Github (which is ironic, considering Microsoft owns Github).
 
Playing a little Jay Som (fantastic album, BTW) using a Meridian Explorer I had in a junk drawer. Boot is very quick with eMMC, the CPU is loafing, and I have close to half a GB of RAM free.

Now I just need to wait for my standoffs to show up so I can mount the Isolator II and the Digi+ PRO and start figuring out the panel layout for Front Panel Express. Trying to decide if I'm going to mount the Millett linear PSU in front of the board, adjacent to the board, or below the board (in all three configurations, there will be a chunk of metal between the PSU and the Pi.

1608262065125.png

I wonder if I have the first Compute Module 4 Moode system running in the wild?
 
I wonder if I have the first Compute Module 4 Moode system running in the wild?
I'd have to think so, unless Tim got his hands on the hardware first.

I have not seen any threads about the CM4 on the Moode forum at all.

Out of curiosity, if you go into Configure System, and then System Info, what kind of CPU temp are you seeing?
 
I'd have to think so, unless Tim got his hands on the hardware first.

I have not seen any threads about the CM4 on the Moode forum at all.

Out of curiosity, if you go into Configure System, and then System Info, what kind of CPU temp are you seeing?
1608266465864.png
 
Wow, that's pretty darn chillin'. Looks like you don't need no stinkin' heat sink, although a stick-on for that CPU can't hurt.
20201218_033728442_iOS.jpg

Well, maybe a little one. ;)

Note: linear PSU there for (a) scale and (b) figuring out where I'm going to place it for the chassis layout - hats not installed as I'm missing the requisite standoffs.
 
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Well, I'm running into issues trying to get the Digi+PRO working - no sound. I'm getting a good connection to the DAC (e.g. lock and sampling lights are lighting up), but no audio. Back to the drawing board.
 
giphy.gif
 
Note: there is one colossal PITA with the CM4 - in order to enable the USB2.0 connectors (which I need for my WiFi adapter), you need to add the following to /boot/config.txt:

dtoverlay=dwc2,dr_mode=host

The problem is that when you muck about with the audio settings, Moode conveniently wipes out any custom parameters you may have defined in /boot/config.txt. So you have to tread carefully.

Yet another reason to put a gig tap behind my main system - so I can stop f*cking around with WiFi.
 
Yet another reason to put a gig tap behind my main system - so I can stop f*cking around with WiFi.
I hear you on that one. A friend of mine just bit the bullet and wired his house, after his old Netgear router died.

He was having the kitchen and one bathroom remodeled anyway, so he figured why not just also tear into a few more walls while we're at it?
 
I hear you on that one. A friend of mine just bit the bullet and wired his house, after his old Netgear router died.

He was having the kitchen and one bathroom remodeled anyway, so he figured why not just also tear into a few more walls while we're at it?
The MoCA adapters seem to work pretty well if you're wired for cable TV.

MoCA.jpg
 
I hear you on that one. A friend of mine just bit the bullet and wired his house, after his old Netgear router died.

He was having the kitchen and one bathroom remodeled anyway, so he figured why not just also tear into a few more walls while we're at it?
Yeah - we need to have some minor electrical work done (a few can lights in the living room, modifying the wiring for a switch that currently controls both a light and a fan to have separate switches for each in the kitchen) so I figure while I've got the electrician here and he's in the attic crawlspace, I'll have him add five CAT6 drops: three in the family room / desk area (so I can get rid of a little 4-port switch), a second behind the family room TV (so I can get rid of another 4-port switch), and one in the living room behind the stereo console (so I can have a wired Pi in the main system).
 
Well, I changed my mind - I think I'm going to have the PSU as an external brick, but use a cool-man Amphenol mil-spec 2-pin connector on the back panel of the player (cable will be captive on the linear PSU). That'll keep the CM4 small (ish) and keep any PSU heat or EMF / RF noise out of the chassis. I just need to find a copy of the rear panel mechanical drawing so I can fab up a Front Panel Express file (and figure out the placement of the connectors for the hat).
 
Well, I changed my mind - I think I'm going to have the PSU as an external brick, but use a cool-man Amphenol mil-spec 2-pin connector on the back panel of the player (cable will be captive on the linear PSU). That'll keep the CM4 small (ish) and keep any PSU heat or EMF / RF noise out of the chassis. I just need to find a copy of the rear panel mechanical drawing so I can fab up a Front Panel Express file (and figure out the placement of the connectors for the hat).
That drawing is definitely available on the RPF site IO4 product page, scroll down for the KiCAD file downloads.
 
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