Some Sony CD player fix-its.

The Sony ES players from the 80’s and 90’s are quite good, better than one may think. They’re old now though, and need more than just a cleanup.

1. Disc scraping noise at the top clamp area, poor reading, the drawer opening on it’s own after not reading, not playing, etc. This is also a real issue with the Denon 1500’s. While the common fix to the upper clamp felt pad is a good hole-plug, it may not address the underlying issue (if the little ring is sticky, yes it has to go regardless.) Sony often used nothing at all, bare plastic. See A, B and C below

2. Drawer opens a few seconds after closing it without reading the disc. See A, B, and C below. Ultra sensitivity to tapping and erratic drawer operation can be traced to the same more times than not.

What’s likely happening is the carriage with the laser and the drive motor is not positioning correctly due to a few possible issues.

A. The whole set of moving parts in the transport.
They all begin to seize from the age of the old lube. The transport has to come out and be disassembled. Obviously, leave the laser assembly in place. The only thing you should do there is clean the silver rail and re-lube it. But the rest has to come apart for cleaning and re-greasing. The gears, the tray, the positioning slide tube for the tray, etc. need to have the old gunk cleaned from everywhere with a qtip and alcohol. Re-apply lithium grease to all areas where it was: gear teeth, gear shafts, the tray tooth strip where the open/close gear meets it, and the slide and position tube for the drawer.
**Do all of A before the belt install.** Clean the belt track with alcohol and a qtip before putting the new belt on.

B. The belt. Even if it appears to still have grip, there’s a chance it looks like this image.jpg . Note the V at one end, well that gets stuck at a pulley end, and is also a sign of stretching. It will cause issues, and needs to be replaced. This is not hard on some players, but is quite a bit more involved on on others (like the X33ES I just did).
Note, some of the ES models are double belt, one for the tray, one for the sled. Same rules apply.

A & B will solve the disc slip, as the carriage will now lift all the way, and provide the proper pressure against the upper clamp.

C. Get a thin Teflon lube for the cam, carefully oil its path, and add some on the bottom side of the cam where the lock ring is. Some of these cams have a secondary mechanism inside, this is where Teflon is best. It’s anti-gumming and has a cleaning property if any is present. It also lasts practically forever.

C Will keep A & B working properly for a very long time.

D. Power supply caps. With the exception of the largest cans, these should also go, especially any super caps. The ones used (caps and super cap) tend to bottom vent, which can take the display out and also can make the power supplied to the front end (motors, laser, panel itself) a bit wonky. Take the time and replace those, you’ll thank yourself.

None of this is expensive, and isn’t too difficult. Take pics in order so you can easily reverse the operation.


Check for laser death first. Confirm diode light, and laser head movement by manually helping the sled into position with your finger. A gentle lift from under it will work. The laser should show red if you look off to the side. Don’t look straight at it. The focus mechanism should also activate. A disc does not need to be present, this should happen immediately after turn on as a startup sequence.

Any issues there need to be handled first. It could also be dead caps, referenced above. It could also be a dead laser.
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Next Round Is On Me
Great post! Hopefully I never have to troubleshoot mine (preventative maintenance is better/less costly than reactive maintenance).
Sony SCD-777ES
Sony DVP-S7700 (not ES but super cool tilt down tray. Copper clad chassis too!)


Awaiting Updated Member Status.
thanks. im using a sony 507esd right now! recently bought it from a guy who rehabbed it. it was under $300. im very happy with it.