Technics SP10 MK2 Shipping Plates

[ICTWoody]

Hey guys,

Just thought you all might enjoy this, and maybe it can be a help to someone else. As a lot of you realize I've sold both my SP10 MK2 motors, one to @S0und Dragon and one to @whatelse.

To ensure safe arrival I found the dimensions of a stock Technics shipping plate online which is used to stabilize the motor durning transport. Being a designer I just drew it up in my Adobe Illustrator software and using a place that laser cuts stuff I had a couple made out of 16ga stainless steel. They turned out really nice. I'm going to adjust the pattern ever so slightly, but I can have more made if anyone needs any. I purchased some stainless M3 screws at the hardware store last night and now they are ready to go. I think they are more Gucci than the factory one... but I'm bias.

- Woody

 

[S0und Dragon]

That's quality!

 

[Audio Refugee]

That’s really cool, Woody. Stainless is such a great material to work with. Several months back I packed up my Thorens TD-280 and shipped it to my BIL in Chicago. I used styrofoam and blue painters tape. I kept thinking about how printers are packed for shipping. It arrived in Chicago intact. Phew. I was sweating. I recall the shipping being about $60.

Back to stainless. I just finished a custom trolly for my telescope. I made few more changes to it last weekend, so it’s now version 1.1. I should post it in another thread. Anyway, really cool!

 

[DC]

Gucci.

 

[JohnVF]

What type of place would I look for if looking for a laser cutter to do things such as this? Well, actually a top plate for a plinth that is wood underneath, and maybe an armboard? I never know what to look for. I have the same dilemma with acrylic that I need to buy/cut.

 

[ICTWoody]

What type of place would I look for if looking for a laser cutter to do things such as this? Well, actually a top plate for a plinth that is wood underneath, and maybe an armboard? I never know what to look for. I have the same dilemma with acrylic that I need to buy/cut.

These were just done through sendcutsend.com which is kinda one of my new favorite discoveries on the web. I used them for the blanking plates for my Onkens where I removed the binding posts and Altec networks too.

- Woody

 

[JP]

Hate to be that guy, and maybe I'm not in this case....

The purpose of OEM bracket was to prevent vertical motion of the shaft, in order to prevent damage to the thrust pad. It actually lifted the top hat of the motor up so that there was no contact between the thrust pad and the ball bearing, and it held it rigid. The only way I've seen flat metal plates work is if they're cocked to put significant pressure on the shaft axially to mobilize it. I'm not a fan of this as if the shaft does move it'll likely cause some damage to the bushing.

Sans the OEM bracket, the best method is simply wide masking tape stretched well and well applied all the way around the circumference of the hat. I may have a picture somewhere...

 

[ICTWoody]

Hate to be that guy, and maybe I'm not in this case....

The purpose of OEM bracket was to prevent vertical motion of the shaft, in order to prevent damage to the thrust pad. It actually lifted the top hat of the motor up so that there was no contact between the thrust pad and the ball bearing, and it held it rigid. The only way I've seen flat metal plates work is if they're cocked to put significant pressure on the shaft axially to mobilize it. I'm not a fan of this as if the shaft does move it'll likely cause some damage to the bushing.

Sans the OEM bracket, the best method is simply wide masking tape stretched well and well applied all the way around the circumference of the hat. I may have a picture somewhere...

Interesting. As advised as it is online to not ship without the plate, it's not stated WHY. Your post is helpful. One of these decks is being hand delivered anyway in about a week... so that one it's not an issue on. The other one we can work out. Thanks for the info and I'll do some digging in more.

- Woody

 

[JP]

Here:

 

[ICTWoody]

Here:

View attachment 13588

Interesting. The stainless plate because of the 7 points of being screwed down is extremely rigid. If I want to lift the "hat" up All I really need to do is purchase some longer M3 screws and add some washers or spacers under the plate under the 4 screws which are outboard of the hat. When it's screwed down by the 3 screws on the hat, it makes it really rigid and removes what little flex the 16ga stainless has. I don't see how the painters tape would provide any advantage over what I have installed currently which is eliminating all movement.

- Woody

 

[JP]

If the bearing isn't bound and you can pull up on the spindle with all your might and not feel the thrust pad hit when you relax the pressure, you're good.

 

[ICTWoody]

If the bearing isn't bound and you can pull up on the spindle with all your might and not feel the thrust pad hit when you relax the pressure, you're good.

If anything it probably is putting SLIGHT downward pressure on the thrust pad of the bearing. Lifting the plate up about 2-3mm and using appropriately longer screws for the outer 4 would probably do the trick. Future plates could me made out of 1/8" thick stainless for even more rigidity.

Thanks again for the insight, @JP this is great knowledge.

- Woody

 

[Audio Refugee]

I love this forum. All kinds of things I never would’ve thought I needed to know.

 

[Ds2000]

Really fine problem solving here. I like reading how-to threads.

 

[Howard]

Late to this. I have a Mk II and may need to ship it. I have the plate but no screws. Can anybody sell me some or tell me the length, thread type, etc? I'd really appreciate it. I dont get on here much so send info to (edited out by MOD). Thanks, great forum.

 

[Howard]

Hey guys,

Just thought you all might enjoy this, and maybe it can be a help to someone else. As a lot of you realize I've sold both my SP10 MK2 motors, one to @S0und Dragon and one to @whatelse.

To ensure safe arrival I found the dimensions of a stock Technics shipping plate online which is used to stabilize the motor durning transport. Being a designer I just drew it up in my Adobe Illustrator software and using a place that laser cuts stuff I had a couple made out of 16ga stainless steel. They turned out really nice. I'm going to adjust the pattern ever so slightly, but I can have more made if anyone needs any. I purchased some stainless M3 screws at the hardware store last night and now they are ready to go. I think they are more Gucci than the factory one... but I'm bias.

- Woody

View attachment 13558View attachment 13559View attachment 13560View attachment 13561View attachment 13562View attachment 13563

Which length M3?