Tips On Soldering Tonearm Wire? Kenwood KD-990/KP-1100 - Now with nudes!

prime minister said:
Thanks guys. My thought is to get something better then a I need for this job, in case the temptation hits to build something.
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IMNSHO very hard to beat the 888D in that class, and it is well suited for on-going hobby work. I used one for several years for all kinds of projects.
 
prime minister said:
Any recommendations on soldering irons and solder? Tools? As stated, I've gotta buy everything fresh for this project, so I might as well get what will work well.
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Hakko FX888D solder station, but beware of the plethora of fake Chinese counterfeit knock-offs that abound. Buy only from an authorized Hakko dealer/distributor. There are various other good choices, but for typical use by an enthusiast/hobbyist you can't go wrong with a Hakko, assuming it is authentic.

For the solder itself there will also be varying opinions, but one thing is certain, use leaded solder, lead-free sucks and is a pain in the ass you won't want. My choice is WBT-0800, or Cardas Quad Eutectic, but others will insist on something more old-school such as Kester 44, and a 60/40 blend. Opinions do vary, but the easy flowing low melt point and good wetting characteristics of WBT-0800 are tough to beat in my opinion and take the guess work out to a great extent. Don't be a hero and use lead-free solder, or if you do, be ready to have that iron BORKING-ass hot. The last thing in the world you want is to take that table apart again just to find a cold solder joint.

In some use cases a solder sucker can come in handy in cleaning and prepping the area or desoldering the original joint, and good flux can be of use there too.

EDIT: I see my post crossed in cyberspace with that of @JP and others. While I personally use the older Hakko 936ESD, it is no longer available and if I had to replace it, the FX888D would get the nod based on my many years of trouble free use of the earlier model.
 
MikeyFresh said:
For the solder itself there will also be varying opinions, but one thing is certain, use leaded solder, lead-free sucks and is a pain in the ass you won't want. My choice is WBT-0800, or Cardas Quad Eutectic, but others will insist on something more old-school such as Kester 44, and a 60/40 blend. Opinions do vary, but the easy flowing low melt point and good wetting characteristics of WBT-0800 are tough to beat in my opinion and take the guess work out to a great extent. Don't be a hero and use lead-free solder, or if you do, be ready to have that iron BORKING-ass hot. The last thing in the world you want is to take that table apart again just to find a cold solder joint.
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It’s best to not mix alloys as there’s an elevated risk of poor joints or failures. As it’s likely 60/40 was used on this originally I’d use that or 63/37. I’d actually use 63/37 as that’s my go-to for leaded work. Absolutely never use lead-free where lead was used previously.

For fresh joints where nothing was used previously use whatever you like for the intended application. For lead-free SAC305 is likely the best bet. Aside from needing more heat, good ventilation should be used as the synthetic fluxes are quite nasty. Also, never mix tips between lead and lead-free.
 
JP said:
It’s best to not mix alloys as there’s an elevated risk of poor joints or failures. As it’s likely 60/40 was used on this originally I’d use that or 63/37. I’d actually use 63/37 as that’s my go-to for leaded work. Absolutely never use lead-free where lead was used previously.

For fresh joints where nothing was used previously use whatever you like for the intended application. For lead-free SAC305 is likely the best bet. Aside from needing more heat, good ventilation should be used as the synthetic fluxes are quite nasty. Also, never mix tips between lead and lead-free.
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I label the containers for my tips as lead or lead-free, and I absolutely defer to those with the old-school knowledge of what was original on these types of jobs, 60/40 certainly seems likely and 63/37 also a good choice for the rework.

Taking a big hit of flux is always bad, but taking a big hit of synthetic flux is killer (not in a good way). 🤪
 
MikeyFresh said:
I label the containers for my tips as lead or lead-free, and I absolutely defer to those with the old-school knowledge of what was original on these types of jobs, 60/40 certainly seems likely and 63/37 also a good choice for the rework.

Taking a big hit of flux is always bad, but taking a big hit of synthetic flux is killer (not in a good way). 🤪
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I’d recommend 63/37 eutectic solder over 60/40. The 63/37 melts and solidifies at the same temperature, which the 60/40 doesn't. This reduces the risk of cold solder joints considerably.
 
prime minister said:
I never knew Weller was German. I always figured it was American. I did a lot of soldering with my dads old Weller gun from the 70s.

I guess it's Veller actually!
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You know, I bet it should be pronounced Veller. Glad I have been saying it wrong for 40 years. LOL
 
prime minister said:
Thanks, guys.
Looking at what's available up here. Any thoughts on the

Weller WE 1010NA?​

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Looks pretty nice, I believe all of the Weller models have been made in Mexico for quite some time now, so not your father's Weller that would last 'till the end of time, but good quality all the same.
 
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