DIY Preferred Method of Routing Driver Cutouts in 1"+ Thick Baffles?

Do It Yourself

Tlarwa

Junior Member
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I've cut a lot of holes with my plunge router and Jasper jig in 3/4" MDF and ply, but haven't worked with a 1" - 1 1/2" baffle before (in this case, live edge ash). I typically route the flange recess diameter first with a rabbet bit, and then cut the actual hole with an upcut spiral bit. Most of the spiral bits I've seen/used have a max 1" depth of cut, however. So what's the best method to do this? Cut as far as I can from one side then flip he piece over and finish the cutour from the back side? I'm pretty sure I could do this successfully by drilling the 1/8" pilot hole through the piece. Or is their a better way? Inquiring minds want to know...
 
Have a spiral that cuts to at least 1&15/16, believe it’s from Amana or CMT?

VR

Andy
 
Have a spiral that cuts to at least 1&15/16, believe it’s from Amana or CMT?

VR

Andy
I assume it's a 1/2" shank at that length of cut? I'll search for it. I was looking on Amazon and didn't see anything that long, but in all fairness there is nothing short of a million options there and no good way to filter the results.
 
Yeah 1/2“ shank and I’ve had it for a couple year, it was also fairly expensive (for a router bit)

Also, it’s probably 4 or 5 inches long….
 
Yeah 1/2“ shank and I’ve had it for a couple year, it was also fairly expensive (for a router bit)

Also, it’s probably 4 or 5 inches long….
Hmmm ... makes me wonder if it's worth it, or if I should flip the piece over and finish the cut from the other side.
 
If you drill the index hole for the Jasper jig right through, then the router should index to the same location. There might be a small amount of run-out, but manageable. Some masking tape and CA glue will allow you to bridge the baffle and the cut-out, so that the hole finishes cleanly.

The other thing to consider is the basket width at that baffle thickness. Depending on the shape of the basket struts, you might have to relieve the back side of the baffle mounting home, perhaps with a chamfer.
 
Hmmm ... makes me wonder if it's worth it, or if I should flip the piece over and finish the cut from the other side.
If it’s a one time thing, then I just flip it over and finish on the other side. But if this is something you’ll be doing often; I’d either use a plunge or flush cut bit.
 
Just bought a fresh upcut spiral bit with a 1" cutting length. Decided I'll cut most of the way through from the front and then flip the baffle and finish the cut from the back. As long as I drill the pilot hole perpendicular to the face the cuts should line up fairly well. I'll be able to clean any offset up with either a flush trim bit or by sanding. Worst case I'll chamfer the back of the cutout, which wouldn't be the worst thing anyway.
 
Just bought a fresh upcut spiral bit with a 1" cutting length. Decided I'll cut most of the way through from the front and then flip the baffle and finish the cut from the back. As long as I drill the pilot hole perpendicular to the face the cuts should line up fairly well. I'll be able to clean any offset up with either a flush trim bit or by sanding. Worst case I'll chamfer the back of the cutout, which wouldn't be the worst thing anyway.
Chamfer of the back of the cut out would be wise from my perspective .... just my 2 pennies worth :D
 
You offering? :) Actually, I have 2 contacts with CNC capabilities, and haven't been able to connect with either of them to get it done. I'll likely end up doing it myself ... not the end of the world.
Hey... ain't this a diy project? 🤗
 
You offering? :) Actually, I have 2 contacts with CNC capabilities, and haven't been able to connect with either of them to get it done. I'll likely end up doing it myself ... not the end of the world.
Even if you have them just do the baffle with all the driver cut-outs ports etc. A lot of car audio shops have CNC and would likely do it for you and they even grasp what you are after.
 
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