When I built the swamp Kauri plinth for my 401 in 2008, I found a local HS that also had adult education classes in the evenings. One of those allowed access to the wood shop in ten week blocks (aligned with school terms). There were max a half dozen ever in there at once.
DIY Woody's Altec Valencia-19 project
- Thread starter ICTWoody
- Start date
Do It Yourself
ICTWoody
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It's an old elementary school. It's a great asset. I'll be back down there today for a couple hours. I'll post up pics of the 2nd woodshop with the tablesaw, joiner, thickness planer etc...
- Woody
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
I think the bases are done other than a little bit of filling, sanding etc… before they get painted.
Today I wrapped up the second base. Glued in some corner blocks and a mid point block. Bottoms are glued and screwed in on both now.
I took a couple pics with some spacers underneath to give a sense of how they’ll look when the rubber feet are attached.
- Woody
Today I wrapped up the second base. Glued in some corner blocks and a mid point block. Bottoms are glued and screwed in on both now.
I took a couple pics with some spacers underneath to give a sense of how they’ll look when the rubber feet are attached.
- Woody
Nice recovery!
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
Thanks. Also lucky these were already slated to be painted... made for less cussing when I realized I undercut it by 0.5". And I put it as a back corner too.
- Woody
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
I'm kinda wondering about port placement. My original rendering had them similar to what is on the stock 846B's... but moved down to clear the horn. Today I started thinking about rear porting. Either in the bases or on the backs of the 846B's.
The Pros to rear porting is I could use Precision Flared Ports, which I don't have room for on the front baffle cause of the width of their flanges. The original design was just using the same 4" ID, 6" long round port like what Altec had in the Valencia's.
From what I understand they say that 2x the diameter of the ports from the wall for rear porting? Since there are two, 4" diameter ports that would say 16" from the walls? I am going to use these in my office rig when they are done and in there near wall placement is likely... but 8-12" off the wall would probably be doable.
Thoughts???
- Woody
Render of fronts without ports...
The Pros to rear porting is I could use Precision Flared Ports, which I don't have room for on the front baffle cause of the width of their flanges. The original design was just using the same 4" ID, 6" long round port like what Altec had in the Valencia's.
From what I understand they say that 2x the diameter of the ports from the wall for rear porting? Since there are two, 4" diameter ports that would say 16" from the walls? I am going to use these in my office rig when they are done and in there near wall placement is likely... but 8-12" off the wall would probably be doable.
Thoughts???
- Woody
Render of fronts without ports...
Caveat: I am just thinking aloud. I actually know nothing.
I would think the driver behind distance to size ratio on rear ports is driven by port velocity and mass of air being moved thru the single port.
The air speed and mass being moved thru each port in your design is the same.
Thus, 2*4"=8".
But, it sounds like space is your premium.
Thus, your original front port design may be the safer bet.
I would think the driver behind distance to size ratio on rear ports is driven by port velocity and mass of air being moved thru the single port.
The air speed and mass being moved thru each port in your design is the same.
Thus, 2*4"=8".
But, it sounds like space is your premium.
Thus, your original front port design may be the safer bet.
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
I could do a slot… but the tech of a flared port seems sound to me. It’s not as much about the port type, as much as about location.
One pro to keeping ports on the baffle is that in the event that I would want to swap in, say 604’s… I could just cut new baffles and screw them on with different ports if nessessary.
- Woody
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
My wife has been out of town for a few days, but gets back tonight. So I took advantage of using her little Subaru Crosstrek to take the Valencia cabs to the maker space.
I cut the front 1/2" off the cabinets to remove the bulk of the bad corners, blems etc... which brings them to 18.5" in depth.
I had already processed down some raw walnut stock I bought to be 1.5"x0.75" and today I rough cut them to length and added a 45deg chamfer. This will be a nice detail and make them a little more classic MCM in my opinion. Also, tougher for the future than the veneered (very thin veneer) particle. The 1.5" deep trim will bring the overall depth to 20" to match my bases and help add a little bit of volume. The inside seam of the hardwood trim will be covered by the front baffle.
Hoping after a light sanding of the cabinets and some dark walnut danish oil the colors will be at least reasonably close. I have a couple scraps of the new walnut to test some finishes on.
Pics below.
- Woody
I cut the front 1/2" off the cabinets to remove the bulk of the bad corners, blems etc... which brings them to 18.5" in depth.
I had already processed down some raw walnut stock I bought to be 1.5"x0.75" and today I rough cut them to length and added a 45deg chamfer. This will be a nice detail and make them a little more classic MCM in my opinion. Also, tougher for the future than the veneered (very thin veneer) particle. The 1.5" deep trim will bring the overall depth to 20" to match my bases and help add a little bit of volume. The inside seam of the hardwood trim will be covered by the front baffle.
Hoping after a light sanding of the cabinets and some dark walnut danish oil the colors will be at least reasonably close. I have a couple scraps of the new walnut to test some finishes on.
Pics below.
- Woody
ICTWoody
No longer a junior member
Any of you pro woodworkers have any sage advice on the best way to minimize the difference in finish between the new hardwood walnut face trim and the existing veneer? I sanded one side with 180 to see what the base veneer looks like…
The speakers have a lot of red tone to them. The samples I did are dark walnut restore a finish and dark walnut minwax. I don’t need exact… but I’d like them closeish.
- Woody
The speakers have a lot of red tone to them. The samples I did are dark walnut restore a finish and dark walnut minwax. I don’t need exact… but I’d like them closeish.
- Woody
Not a pro at all, but with a couple pairs I've refinished, I took a tip from a Klipsch forum member...which was to mix certain colors to get your desired end result. To help get that aged reddish walnut finish look, Minwax Walnut and Gunstock were mixed to about 70% / 30% mix respectively.
It looked really good, although I wasn't trying to match new pieces with old as you are. I'd make samples starting at 90% / 10% and add more gunstock to if needed. Gunstock adds that warm reddish hue without leaning towards that darker purplish hue like red mahogany or dark cherry. Just my two cents.
The project looks great so far, as does the shop!
I like this idea.
Do you have any samples with less heartwood? That purple is a challenge to stain evenly.
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