The JE Labs/ Angela SE 2A3 amplifier, revisited

Damn good idea..... and you just reminded me that I may have some old chassis that have what I need!
 
To make an extension for a 1/4" shaft, you just need:

1. Aluminum rod.
2. A 1/4" shaft coupler.
3. A panel bushing for the shaft.

These items can all be bought a la carte, and cutting aluminum rod with hand tools is quick and easy.
 
I still don't understand what was so difficult about the umbilical construction.
 
The finished umbilical...

49167987223_17d34e62d3_k.jpg
That looks vaguely like a garden hose. ;)
 
I still don't understand what was so difficult about the umbilical construction.
Each end has ten solder points, which isn’t difficult in and of itself. But each individual wire is treated with a piece of heat shrink over those solder points, metal braid over the whole bundle, tech flex over that, and a larger heat shrink over each end. All of these things and the connector parts need to be installed on the bundle in proper (reverse) order before soldering the second end. Then you solder the correct wires to their respective points, slide the (previously installed) heat shrink over the solder points, slide the (previously installed) braid over the bundle, then the (previously installed) tech flex and the (previously installed) finishing heat shrink. Heat it in place, then slide the (previously installed) connector ends down and affix them properly.

Did you miss anything, or put something on in the wrong order? Uh oh, now you get to re-do it all and try again! :-/

Yeah, they kinda suck. :)
 
Could you provide a little more details around those big Bosch MKP caps there, Nate?
I had 'em handy...

I don't remember where or when I got them, but they're supposed to be pretty nice and I would prefer not to use electrolytics for some silly reason.
 
The cathode bypass caps and the electrolytic cap where the output transformer connects are very much in the signal path.
 
Each end has ten solder points, which isn’t difficult in and of itself. But each individual wire is treated with a piece of heat shrink over those solder points, metal braid over the whole bundle, tech flex over that, and a larger heat shrink over each end. All of these things and the connector parts need to be installed on the bundle in proper (reverse) order before soldering the second end. Then you solder the correct wires to their respective points, slide the (previously installed) heat shrink over the solder points, slide the (previously installed) braid over the bundle, then the (previously installed) tech flex and the (previously installed) finishing heat shrink. Heat it in place, then slide the (previously installed) connector ends down and affix them properly.

Did you miss anything, or put something on in the wrong order? Uh oh, now you get to re-do it all and try again! :-/

Yeah, they kinda suck. :)

I've had to redo plenty of them, and it is a super pita.... I try to use the 5 pin connectors because it's so much easier to solder and slip heat shrink on them. 18awg seems to be about the biggest you can reasonably use too. I use 16awg plenty, but it's much more of a pain to fit into the solder cup/pad.
 
You could definitely leave off the cathode bypass cap on the first stage. That will reduce gain (not a bad thing with a 6SL7) and increase the output impedance from that stage (also OK since you have a cathode follower).

-PB
 
I admire anyone who can drill holes for RCA jacks that straight by hand!
No way I could do that by hand! It's all about careful layout, then center punch, then a tiny pilot hole... and then the stepped bit in a drill press.

My first attempt at cutting holes (by hand) in an amp chassis was the very same day I bought my first drill press! :)
 
Nice job. I really like the two chassis design , beautiful!
Would you mind let me know where I can buy this big Hammond Case, and the small angle Aluminum Bar ?
 
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