The great cartridge setup discussion.

I’m having an off night with Cart set up and hum…..I absolutely hate HUM….sorry. Just needed to vent.
The Stanton will hum on a metal headshell (and sometimes others). If you get Hum with an 881 you're supposed to break the ground tag on one of the pins or just disconnect that lead, though I don't remember which one it is. You should be able to see it.
 
I've seen the Feikert Adjust+ setup system/software in action and its quite thorough.
Actually was this:


Looks quite clever in its execution. I just can't swallow the price. Then again, if it takes away my frustration, maybe it's worth it? I don't know. I'm just getting to a point where I'm dreading setting up the next cartridge.

I raised the arm between 1 and 2mm and the sound locked in better. Oddly instead of the tone changing it projected a bit more. Voices felt more present.
The actual change in angle is very small. I'm not even sure if my calculations were correct, but I think that raising my arm by 1mm results in a change in angle of ~0.25°. Fremer even mentions that in his "big" article about SRA (how little the angle changes with regards to arm height), and it kind of throws water on the idea that the arm height should be changed when switching from 180g records to 200g or standard 140(?)g. If playing records was that nitpicky where I had to change the height with every single record, I'd go straight back to digital and never return.

BTW, one thing I would like to get is some sort of microscope so I can see the actual tip of the stylus to determine if it is worn, installed crooked, etc. No idea what I would even look for, and it would probably be beyond my budget for a good one I'm thinking...
 
I’m having an off night with Cart set up and hum…..I absolutely hate HUM….sorry. Just needed to vent.

The Stanton will hum on a metal headshell (and sometimes others). If you get Hum with an 881 you're supposed to break the ground tag on one of the pins or just disconnect that lead, though I don't remember which one it is. You should be able to see it.
Huh. I had that with my Nagaoka. I thought the headshell was bad. Or rather, two headshells, as I had a lot of hum on both. What I ended up doing was mounting the cart with plastic screws, and also insulating the top of the cart with a layer of clear packing tape. Dead silent!

That might be worth a try if you have the means to do it.
 
Huh. I had that with my Nagaoka. I thought the headshell was bad. Or rather, two headshells, as I had a lot of hum on both. What I ended up doing was mounting the cart with plastic screws, and also insulating the top of the cart with a layer of clear packing tape. Dead silent!

That might be worth a try if you have the means to do it.
I don't remember how you break the ground strap on the Stanton or if it's permanent. It removes the body of the cart from the ground scheme...or something. But yes plastic screws and shims to disconnect the cart physically from the shell should work, though I don't recall the Pioneer table having a metal head shell so... could be something else?
 
So then this whole argument over VTA vs SRA comes in. With SRA being 'off' sometimes when VTA is correct. But...why can't VTA change? Why can't 'correct' VTA be that which results in correct SRA?
Yeah, it's confusing. But to what does VTA refer? Is that a manufacturer specification for the cartridge that we are referring to? I think part of the fallacy is that the designed VTA of a stylus/cantilever assembly doesn't carry through to manufacturing tolerances, and we get styli/cantilevers that aren't exactly what they should be. That is what Fremer was referring to--not so much VTA, but with how far off some of the cartridges were in terms of tolerances. Look at how bad my "unnamed" cartridge was--unacceptable build quality for my $700-ish dollars.

SRA is a concrete measurement done by our own observation. Honestly that's the only measurement I trust. With a calibrated ring on the arm, I can swap headshells/carts and dial in an other cart in less than a minute; two minutes if I have to insert the SUT. In other words, if I write the numbers down (height, anti-skate), it is repeatable.
 
Yeah, it's confusing. But to what does VTA refer? Is that a manufacturer specification for the cartridge that we are referring to? I think part of the fallacy is that the designed VTA of a stylus/cantilever assembly doesn't carry through to manufacturing tolerances, and we get styli/cantilevers that aren't exactly what they should be. That is what Fremer was referring to--not so much VTA, but with how far off some of the cartridges were in terms of tolerances. Look at how bad my "unnamed" cartridge was--unacceptable build quality for my $700-ish dollars.

SRA is a concrete measurement done by our own observation. Honestly that's the only measurement I trust. With a calibrated ring on the arm, I can swap headshells/carts and dial in an other cart in less than a minute; two minutes if I have to insert the SUT. In other words, if I write the numbers down (height, anti-skate), it is repeatable.
Speaking of anti-skate, that's next on my list. It's been oddly more important to get right on this low-low-mass arm than in heavier arms. I guess that makes sense?
 
I don't remember how you break the ground strap on the Stanton or if it's permanent. It removes the body of the cart from the ground scheme...or something. But yes plastic screws and shims to disconnect the cart physically from the shell should work, though I don't recall the Pioneer table having a metal head shell so... could be something else?
Indeed it could be anything. But at least the process of elimination (removing the headshell grounding) by insulating could help track down the problem.

Honestly. I didn't even know this was a thing, and it took a lot of digging via the Googles Machine to find a couple others who had the same issue and mentioned they similarly decoupled the cart from the arm or headshell, and the issue went away.

Plus, on my old turdtable (that which was traded in), I had hum issues and it was a carbon fiber arm. Not so much with high-output carts, but nothing would work to remove hum when I used the SUT. I'd orient that thing in every which direction and all it would do is change how the hum sounded. Like an antenna. I thought it was a bad design. Turns out with the 1210G, it's dead quiet. I never expected that something in the carbon fiber arm, DIN plug, wiring, etc. in the TT was the culprit.
 
Indeed it could be anything. But at least the process of elimination (removing the headshell grounding) by insulating could help track down the problem.

Honestly. I didn't even know this was a thing, and it took a lot of digging via the Googles Machine to find a couple others who had the same issue and mentioned they similarly decoupled the cart from the arm or headshell, and the issue went away.

Plus, on my old turdtable (that which was traded in), I had hum issues and it was a carbon fiber arm. Not so much with high-output carts, but nothing would work to remove hum when I used the SUT. I'd orient that thing in every which direction and all it would do is change how the hum sounded. Like an antenna. I thought it was a bad design. Turns out with the 1210G, it's dead quiet. I never expected that something in the carbon fiber arm, DIN plug, wiring, etc. in the TT was the culprit.
Very insightful.
 
Speaking of anti-skate, that's next on my list. It's been oddly more important to get right on this low-low-mass arm than in heavier arms. I guess that makes sense?
I feel it's one of the most important settings--balancing the pressure between both groove walls ensures even wear of the stylus, and that the stylus traces properly by being properly "centered."

I never understood those who claimed that certain carts don't "like" anti-skate. Yeah, dude. Remind me to never buy a cartridge or any records from you...
 
Cartridge pr0n...

1000008800-01.jpeg

Hummed like an SOB on this ancient AT headshell from the early 80s (super lightweight--measures 6g) until I added the packing tape, plastic screws, and plastic washers. (There is a very tiny bit of the tape sticking out of the front...I don't even notice it.) I don't even know if the headshell is made of plastic or metal but, since I insulated it and the hum went away, it must be metal.

I replaced the headshell leads when I repurposed this shell. The ART7 came with a set of new leads, but since I don't know if it's going to be scrapped or not (it's defective), I decided to use the leads on this old headshell instead. (Any replacement headshell I get, I plan on getting some Cardas headshell leads in the future.)
 
I feel it's one of the most important settings--balancing the pressure between both groove walls ensures even wear of the stylus, and that the stylus traces properly by being properly "centered."

I never understood those who claimed that certain carts don't "like" anti-skate. Yeah, dude. Remind me to never buy a cartridge or any records from you...
I don't disagree that you need it, its just that it varies so much across a record that I don't know that I agree that there's a 'correct' number for it, beyond a sort of average.

That said, the settings on my arm seem pretty accurate for it. There's even a 3-setting fine adjustment for stylus shape.
 
Cartridge pr0n...

View attachment 77358

Hummed like an SOB on this ancient AT headshell from the early 80s (super lightweight--measures 6g) until I added the packing tape, plastic screws, and plastic washers. (There is a very tiny bit of the tape sticking out of the front...I don't even notice it.) I don't even know if the headshell is made of plastic or metal but, since I insulated it and the hum went away, it must be metal.

I replaced the headshell leads when I repurposed this shell. The ART7 came with a set of new leads, but since I don't know if it's going to be scrapped or not (it's defective), I decided to use the leads on this old headshell instead. (Any replacement headshell I get, I plan on getting some Cardas headshell leads in the future.)
I have a couple of headshells where I've just scavenged leads to make a full set, and they're all the wrong colors...or multiples of the same color, and I set up carts on them going by just knowing the pin-out. It's a good thing I don't have OCD as that would drive me NUTS if I did.
 
I don't disagree that you need it, its just that it varies so much across a record that I don't know that I agree that there's a 'correct' number for it, beyond a sort of average.
Indeed, it's a dynamic force that changes with diameter as well as speed--45 RPM should need a separate setting than 33⅓, I would think. An ancient turntable I had (my first "real" one I guess) had separate scales for conical and elliptical styli, so there's that too, I guess?

I do use some test tones to set it, but not the anti-skating test tones as they can be a bit "coarse" for setting that sort of thing. (Yet when I compare both types of test tones, the setting is the same, so... 🤷‍♂️) The milder test tones still give me a way to cancel or equalize the distortion across both channels. I figure it's better than nothing (and guessing)--at least I'm somewhere in the ballpark.

I saw a contraption that set antiskating via suspending the arm with some sort of lines...and I can't see how that could be accurate since it does not involve movement of the surface the stylus rides on. Maybe if I see a description of the physics behind it? (That's probably above my 4th grade reading level though.)

But still...here's one that is baffling. I've never been able to adjust a couple of my carts to the correct anti-skating. A long-departed MC tracked at the same tracking force as another cart I had, yet the inward pull was so strong that even with anti-skating set to max, it scratched its way across the first couple of grooves on the record. Even now, comparing a Dynavector to the Nagaoka at the same tracking force, the Naggy setles in nicely at an anti-skate setting that isn't too far off from the tracking force, while the Dyna still wants to pull inward even when set to max. (I mean, you can even see it pulling inward visually. Is it the heavier mass of the MC carts? Is it the low compliance (based on something I read years ago)?

Makes me want to try a linear tracking arm. But that, too, is above my pay grade. And has its own set of issues.
 
Knowing what I do of (so-called "antique") acoustic recording/reproducing technology, and the degree to which differing opinions fed into the development of the subjective technology initially involved, I'm not surprised it continues to the present day. I'm just endlessly fascinated by everything we discuss about this topic!
 
Actually was this:


Looks quite clever in its execution. I just can't swallow the price. Then again, if it takes away my frustration, maybe it's worth it? I don't know. I'm just getting to a point where I'm dreading setting up the next cartridge.


The actual change in angle is very small. I'm not even sure if my calculations were correct, but I think that raising my arm by 1mm results in a change in angle of ~0.25°. Fremer even mentions that in his "big" article about SRA (how little the angle changes with regards to arm height), and it kind of throws water on the idea that the arm height should be changed when switching from 180g records to 200g or standard 140(?)g. If playing records was that nitpicky where I had to change the height with every single record, I'd go straight back to digital and never return.

BTW, one thing I would like to get is some sort of microscope so I can see the actual tip of the stylus to determine if it is worn, installed crooked, etc. No idea what I would even look for, and it would probably be beyond my budget for a good one I'm thinking...
I've never once even thought about changing VTA for thicker records. Life is far too short to live like that.

I need to get into the basement this weekend to find my iPhono2, while there I'll look for the microscope. It wasn't a very good one but it worked ok. Mental note, get a better USB microscope.

On this particular AT cart its starting to look like VTA and SRA matched up from the factory and the suspension was just a bit stiff resulting in SRA being 'right' with the arm just a bit down in the rear...but the cart suspension is settling in now and the arm is more level now as I reset it. The fun of old carts. There's noticeably more give in the cantilever when I set it down now compared to when I first put it on.
 
I hate to admit it (as I love cartridges), but I get close with a Feickert and a mirror, then just listen. My ears aren't great any more, and neither are my eyes. Hands are even worse. So excessive fiddling of the sort I used to do is wasted on my senses and just makes me sad for lost skills...
I get all into it for an evening then quickly lose interest and settle in to listen. I'm not somebody who constantly fusses over it every day. The only time I did that was with some annoying carts that I couldn't figure out- and turns out some of those had internal issues that were never going to be cured by alignment. My Zyx was like that. I learned a lot about alignment trying to figure that cart's alignment out as it was sibilant no matter what I did, and it turned out to be defective. Trying to fight the VPI unipivot it was on really turned me off from listening to records at all for a bit.

So I'll add that having a tonearm that you like dealing with is really helpful in loving this whole thing. Another arm I didn't enjoy playing with was an older Well Tempered arm. Pre-golf-ball. You'd set it, then overnight the goop in the damping pond would settle and your arm would be at a 45 degree lean in the morning.
 
I have two different thicknesses of Herbies mats if I want to adjust for different record weights. I rarely do though.
 
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